ad astra per alia porci

May 20, 2007, 4:46 am
Filed under: fashion and grooming

Extracts/notes from Gentleman by Bernhard Roetzel

 Timeless Fragrances

  • Halston Z-14 by Halston
  • Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior
  • Extract of Limes – Geo. E. Trumper
  • Acqua Di Parma
  • Polo by Ralph Lauren
  • Giorgio of Beverley Hills
  • Paco Rabanne pour Homme
  • Vetiver by Guerlain
  • Grey Flannel
  • Eau d’Hermes
  • Knize Ten

The Right Shirt – The Right Fit

  • Cuffs should cover the wrist fully and touch the root of the thumb.
  • 1cm of cuff should show when wearing a jacket on top of the shirt.
  • Tips of a collar should touch the breast of a shirt and should not lift up when you move your head.
  • The outer edge of the collar and the tips should be just covered by the jacket when wearing a jacket over the shirt.
  • The shirt collar should not be covered at the back when wearing a jacket.

Good Shoes

  • One should have at least two pairs of black leather shoes if he uses them daily. Alternate between the two daily.
  • Good names for welted shoes: Church’s, Allen-Edmonds, Alden, Tricker’s, Foster & Son, Edward Green, John Lobb Paris, Ludwig Reiter, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Lotusse.
  • Mocassins: differentiate between American and Italian mocs
  • American mocs are practical everyday shoes with no pretensions to elegance. Some names include: Allen-Edmonds, Bass, Sebago, Timberland and Florsheim.
  • Italian names include: Gucci, Moreschi, Gravati, Fratelli Rosetti and J.P. Tod’s

Formal Shoes

  • Generally, there are two kinds of formal shoes: those with closed lacing and those with open lacing.
  • Shoes with closed lacing are more dressy than those with open lacing.
  • Closed lacing means that the two side of the upper drawn together by the laces are sewn under the front part of the shoe. In other words the “top”, laced part of the shoe is tucked below the overall leather.
  • Open lacing means the laced portion is sewn above the main leather body of the shoe.

Socks – Getting the Combination Right

  • Always wear knee-length socks that do not expose the bare leg ever.
  • The basic principle is that the socks should be just as dark as the shoes, and on the other hand they should not contrast too strongly with the pants and your other clothes.

The Best Watches in the World

  • Some names: Abraham-Louis Breguet, Audemars Piguet, William Baume, Breitling, IWC, Hamilton, Jaegaer-LeCoultre, Longines, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, A. Lange & Songe, Patek Phillippe, TAG Heuer, Zenith.

Polo Shirts

  • Lacoste and Ralph Lauren

Classic American Brands

  • A few: Levi’s, Bass and Sperry

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